A Mermaid's Tale about Island Magic
A Peek into Orcas Island, Camano Island, Seattle & Bainbridge Island in Washington
Hello Friends,
Before we even arrived at Orcas, we met Terra and Chloe, a mom and daughter who have lived on Orcas for Chloe’s 15 years growing up, and were visiting San Juan Island on Spring Break. Terra and Chloe were eating at a table next to us at an excellent sushi place called Jima on San Juan. Terra chose Orcas to raise Chloe because Orcas has one of the best public schools in the country. In Chloe’s high school, there are 150 students, 30 in her class. Small class sizes are key in education. I know this from teaching 2nd grade in the public schools, and always received my best education in the small honors classes at UCLA. The two briefed us on Orcas, gave us an itinerary, and we did our best to hit their recommendations. They taught us the phrase “island magic,” and they were definitely part of it.
Orcas is known as “the gem of the San Juans” and it really is. Orcas has a magic about it. So far, it’s my favorite. We stayed in an area called East Sound which is at the top of the horseshoe-shaped island. The above photo is from our balcony at the Outlook Inn which we loved for their large rooms, comphy beds, fireplace with sitting area, AWESOME bathtub, and grass everywhere for Kai. We could have sat and stared out at this scene all day.
Mermaidy, yes, as evidenced by the mers in the lower corner of this map. What stood out most on this island: the friendly people, the Brown Bear Bakery, and Dragonfly Coffee. We went several times in several days to the bakery and coffee shop, including Easter. On our way to Dragonfly, we met Julie and Dan standing near a lilac tree I was admiring. Dan was a retired postal worker from Kauai and Julie a therapist. We talked to them for about 20 minutes and guess what? Julie graduated from Shasta High in Redding in 1979 which was crazy because I graduated 15 miles down the road in Anderson in 1982. We were probably at the same parties. Island magic.
There are so many beautiful flowers, specifically lilacs, on Orcas. As our days unfolded, so did the buds of the lilacs. And they live in many colors and sizes here, some reaching into two-story trees. It’s really beautiful, and an indicator that they get lots of rain though it never rained the whole time we were on the islands when we were awake. This little house below holds the vibe of many of the homes with bright green lawns and colorful gardens.
Orcas is known for its pottery and there are several spots on the island where a number of potters display their wares. We ventured out through a forest and landed on one with a huge collection of different patterns, styles, and items. Adds a whole new meaning to the term Pottery Barn. This is one small section of a much larger offering.
We left Orcas on Easter and returned to Anacortes by ferry for brunch with our friends at Majestic Inn and Spa. From there, we drove to Camano Island and checked into an AirBB with a HUGE fenced yard. Kai was very excited. Camano has a very different feel than the San Juans. First, like Whidbey, it’s accessible by bridge so no ferry necessary. It’s also a bit of a hidden gem that still has access to the city Stanwood where we actually got to go to the movies for the first time in a month and a half. (We saw “Warfare” which was so intense.)
Two experiences on Camano really stand out. First, we were walking down to the beach and wandered by this old school house. We love to uncover details about historic sites, so as a former teacher, mother of a teacher, and the grand daughter of one of the original 1 room schoolhouse teachers in Lubbock, Texas (Grandma Slaten), of course we stopped. Just as we were reading about it the bell rang 12 noon. We later learned from Chuck, the man inside who had made this his retirement project, that bell cost them 30K so he was happy we experienced it.
Inside, they recreate the very first teacher to teach here, Maude Hayden of Iowa. Back in the day, her brother was a logger and she came over to see him and stayed. They bring fourth graders to the school house and a local woman dresses up like Maude and teaches the students. Everyone has a good time according to Chuck. These were the original blackboards which add to that authentic feel.
Another standout of Camano are the two state parks which were five minutes from our AirBB. We are now proud owners of a Washington National Park Discovery Pass so the next day went just down the road to Cama Beach State Park to find some more forest walking paths for our morning walk.
Down at the water, we landed upon what appeared to be abandoned cabins. Nobody was down there. That is, until we walked the length of the cabins and met Pat Knowles. Pat is a volunteer in the park and also an Earth Angel who knows the park inside and out. Pat, a retired ER nurse, ended up teaching us about the wild eagles in the park, their nests, how to feed wild chickadees, and the Save the Cabins project.
She carried a nice camera, her binoculars, nuts in a plastic bag for those chickadees, and lots of stories about the creatures of Cama. As we were driving away, Pat ran up the hill, found our car, and said, “The orcas are swimming by! Come quick!”
Remember when we were on Costa Rica and I had been waiting to see the monkeys the whole trip? Finally, on the last day the guy ran and got me at breakfast and took me to the monkeys? This was that, but with the orcas. They had been elusive for a month, and I had hoped I would see them from the shore before we went inland. I ran behind Pat back down the hilly path and there they were. The orcas were closer to Whidbey and my camera didn’t get a great shot, but just hearing them breathe and seeing them pass was perfect. Pat said here in Puget Sound there are resident whales that eat salmon and transient whales that eat seals. They come right up to the kayaks and pass beneath them. She’s never had a problem. Thanks, Pat, for being our forest docent, sharing your stories with us, and showing me those majestic creatures in the wild. Island magic.
When we left Camano for Seattle, we had a bit of city culture shock. These islands are pretty rural and there are forests everywhere. However, the Lotte Hotel, which is walkable to Pike’s Place and 8 minutes from the ferry, is kind of like a big tree. You check in on the 16th floor, the Charlotte Restaurant is on the top floor overlooking the city, and the halls are a tree trunk design with branches. It was like we were in a fancy treehouse. Here are the sunset stages from our room.
We explored Pike’s Place on a nice sunny Seattle day and because the rainy season is just rounding the corner, it’s not crazy yet. The crowds are still relatively small. After lobster rolls at Pike’s Place Chowder, we went in search of coffee (because of course we did) and found this quaint place called Storyville Coffee managed by Emily. We talked to Emily for a bit, and eventually got back to the story of Pat on Camano. Emily said she was going to go check out Camano on the weekend. I hope she finds Pat and feeds the chickadees.
As we were packing up to leave The Lotte Hotel, greeter Arthur asked where we were going. When we told him Bainbridge, he did one of those island magic things and gave us a card with the name of the guy at the bike shop (Jeremy at Bainbridge Island Cycle Shop) with a list of the places we should go on Bainbridge. It just keeps happening.
The ferry to Bainbridge Island out of Seattle was much speedier than the San Juan ferry out of Anacortes. I’d heard the politics from several people along the way, and word is Bainbridge gets more money. There were also lots of cyclists and motorcycles that come over for what looked like a day trip, and there are some roads on the island with bike trails on both sides. Bainbridge Ferry doesn’t take reservations, but there are crossings all day long. We lined up an hour early, parked, and went to eat lunch. We were in the front which is the best view. It’s a 35 minute ride from Seattle to Bainbridge, but you can also leave the island without taking the ferry. One of the first spots where both Arthur and Jeremy told us to go when we arrived was to see Pia the Peacekeeper by Thomas Dambo. Pia was huge!
Bainbridge has 24,500 people who live here and lots more who visit. When you get off the ferry, and enter into Bainbridge, you quickly hit the harbor area with whimsical rock figures doing fun things. We found Pegasus Coffee down here which was super busy and delicious. I know, I know. The coffee thing. I think it’s how we orient to a new space. (I don’t even drink caffeine any more.)
The feel is immediately different than the other islands. Bainbridge feels way more traveled, like people have more money, and feels a bit less friendly than the other islands which is still WAY friendlier than most places. Having said that, on our morning walk to this beach below we met Debra and Mike from Long Beach whom we really liked. They were visiting their son who happened to live in the same community where we were staying. We plan to meet up with them at Cafe Luxxe this summer because, you know, coffee and stories. If you’re out there Debra and Mike, we’re looking forward to it.
Another Bainbridge fun fact is that Bainbridge is the home of Pickle Ball. You heard it right. It all started here on the island. Like the other islands, it’s outdoor paradise when the weather is right. Fort Ward Park, a wooded trail with ocean on one side and shades of all colors that make up the forest on the left. The forest holds such light shining through multiple shades of green beauty.
Bainbridge has an inordinate amount of Japanese maples in all colors, and also a sordid history of imprisoning more than 120,000 Japanese individuals, two-thirds of whom were American citizens pulled from their West Coast homes and forcibly placed in concentration camps during World War II. The Bainbridge Island Japanese American Exclusion Memorial stands to remind “Nidoto Nai Yoni” which translates to “Let it not happen again.” The diverse Japanese maples everywhere make me think of this when I see them, and recite the mantra to myself.
With this week, we wrap up the island magic compare and contrast adventure. Four down. Twenty four to go. With island magic on our side, it’ll happen.
Where in the world is the mermaid? Bainbridge Island, Washington en route to Portland, Oregon
Where flora meets whimsy.
Where’s Next? Portland and Bend, Oregon; Ashland, Oregon
Portland just because we like to visit. Bend: I learned to snow ski on Mt. Bachelor when I was 12. I haven’t been back since. I’ve heard it’s changed. And Ashland, well you know we’re regulars. We wrap up our PNW Imrama in Ashland, and Ashland in the spring promises a stunning finale.
Through Kai’s Eyes
When we arrived at Bainbridge Island, boy did the Inn at Pleasant Beach have the best gift bag for me. I was so hungry (because travel days) and the milk bone was full size. I ate my water bowl (on accident) so we had to throw that away, but I really loved that they thought to give me all these goodies. It makes me smile.\
Mystical Mermaid Musings: Diving Deeper Into You
I absolutely hate surface talk. Hate it. I also know so many people who hate going below the surface in conversation with others. They hate it as much as I hate surface talk.
Which one are you? Why? Are you more comfortable talking about the weather, or about what is happening in the world right now? Does it stress you out to go deep? Why or why not?
What Stories? Your Friends & Neighbors - Apple TV
We’re digging this one. It rolls around the question “do you ever really know your neighbors?” I also love the exploration of the network of domestic workers that know everything that’s happening in the neighborhood, often more than the people who live there. It’s insightful, and clever. We’re staying current on the weekly drops and I find myself excited about the next one.
Are you watching it? Do you like it?
This week’s Haiku
Nidoto Nai Yoni by J To talk to the trees To listen to what they’ve seen To root in their reach
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Thank you for being here. May your week be filled with all good things. Shine. Your light is needed here.
Oceans of Love, Jamie
Follow me on Instagram @jamieweilwrites and follow Kai @kainnection. Follow me at BlueSky @jamieweil.bsky.social.
PS. If you stayed ‘til the end, take this joy with you from Lang and Shiv, Merma’s hearts.
Forgot to mention the wooden desks lined up against the wall in the school room, took me right back to elementary school, I sat in desks just like those 📝📚
Reading about island life takes me out of the over crowded South Bay. It’s not a far stretch imaging living in one of the quaint cottages. All the independent coffee shops! I too do not like surface conversations, I find them insincere. I have a handful of women friends whose conversations sustain me.