A Mermaid's Tale about Spring in the San Juan Islands
Island magic: it’s a thing.
Hello Friends,
There’s a palpable change when you pass from Oregon into Washington. The first stop we made, I had a robot greet me.
I felt like we were arriving in Washington with Spring herself, and after the rainy Oregon Coast, we were ready for her. The brightest green on the trees, thick pink and white blossoms reaching to touch the baby blue sky, bright yellow wild mustard fields lining the road sides. Tulip Town, a short 20 minute drive from Anacortes, stole the show with a perfect combination of sunny weather, tulips at their prime, and a snowy Mt. Vernon in the backdrop. Just stunning.
I love Anacortes, the portal town where you catch the ferries to the San Juan Islands. I was glad we had booked several nights here to explore. Anacortes celebrates their local writers, artists, musicians and creators in very noticeable ways. Art is everywhere amidst these gorgeous pink blossoming trees. (I have no idea what those pink trees are, but they are everywhere.) When I told the barista at the local independent book store that, as a writer of books and things, I really appreciated that community support of local artists, he said, “It would be weird not to.” Damn straight. That’s the Anacortes mindset, and if more communities worked like this, we’d be a better world.
We spent our nights here at the Majestic Inn and Spa which had very nice people, those Comphy brand sheets I love, and a delicious little restaurant we ate at more than once. The town is walkable, and exploring the neighborhood revealed so many free little libraries in people’s yards, some with multiple libraries broken down by age, and under a lilac tree at that.
After exploring lovely Anacortes, we headed to the first, and biggest, of all the islands: San Juan. We would learn that other islanders call this “the city.” It’s not. It’s quite rural sans a small section known as Friday Harbor which is the area right when you debark the ferry. The ferry lines off the state of Washington are different depending on which islands you plan to visit. The four San Juan Isands: Lopez, Shaw, Orcas, and San Juan. We went from Anacortes to San Juan to Orcas to Anacortes. That way, you only pay once and use the same ticket. You do need to make a reservation for the Anacortes to San Juan route (and from Orcas to Anacortes), and you do that here: (206) 464-6400. There is also a WSDOT app you can download which lays out route times and much more, but I always like to talk to people, and these people are very nice. For movement between the four San Juans (inner island ferries), you can’t get reservations, but you do need to line up in the ferry line early, at least 30 minutes prior. (For the bigger terminals, line up 1 hour in advance.)
We enjoy the ferries, and just sit in the car with Kai and catch up on our late night comedians. You can get out and go to the bathroom, or sit up in the ship’s main decks if you choose. When we reached San Juan, we had some time to kill before checking in to our bed and breakfast so stopped at a coffee shop. That’s where we experienced our first Island Magic, a term we would learn later. We sat down to share a table with a woman named Tajna (pronounced tie nuh) Zaninović. Tajna is Croatian, and we discovered she is related to the owners of Opolo, a winery we belonged to and have visited for many years when we used to drink wine. (It was, in fact, a conversation with one of those owners during Covid that stopped me from both writing about wine and later stop drinking it.) Turns out, Tajna is a poet and carries around a little journal to write her poems. I asked her to read one. She didn’t hesitate, and now you get to meet Tajna, too.
It was as if Tajna was placed there by the Universe as a docent to welcome us to the islands. Her dad is a professor of oceanography from the University of Hawaii, which was just one more synchronicity to let me know this was no chance meeting. Tajna gave us a list of places to see, and it was based on those recommendations that we explored San Juan. Thank you, Tajna!
We drove directly from there to Tajna recommendation #1: Lime Kiln Lighthouse. The view was stunning, and I could have stayed there looking out at the sea all day.
The next day we headed out to American Camp and specifically Grandma’s Cove another of Tajna’s recommendations. When we parked, we looked up and four or five eagles were flying above us as if they were in flight school. Exhilarating because we’re used to seeing vultures in Nor Cal and seagulls in So Cal. The hike down to Grandma’s Cove was filled with wildflowers along the way, historic buildings, but only three people and a dog. When we got all the way down, we had the whole cove to ourselves. Kai had a blast perfecting his find the stick game.
So happy to have his cone off, this guy.
Where we learned the term Island Magic was that night at dinner at Jima, one of the newer sushi places on the island and another Tajna rec. This place had the best spicy tuna on crispy rice and it was here we met Terra and Chloe, a mother and daughter from Orcas Island, the next island on our PNW Imrama. We got the low down on Orcas from both an adult and teen viewpoint. More on that next week.
One highlight of San Juan was stumbling on a huge sculpture garden after dinner in an area called Roche Harbor. The dinner didn’t impress us, but the sculpture garden in the perfect light was incredible. Island Magic. Just as we had seen in Hakone (Japan), the garden was designed with the nature around it in mind. The lake, with duck mating rituals at its center, reflected not only the trees around it, but also the frog sculpture and many others.
The garden stretched on and on, and each way I looked the light was captured just right. I could have taken three more hours in this garden, reading the poetry that often accompanied the sculptures. Such an inspiring find.
Our final night on San Juan we went to a restaurant with a reputation: Duck Soup. We had no idea it was the first day they were seating out on the patio “for the season” nor did we know we would be the first people there. Sitting at that table, watching the trees reflected in the lake across from us and the 100 year old jacaranda above us sporting her first blooms, it just felt like it was like this all year long. We talked to many locals on the island who said these days were the exceptions, and we had Island Magic on our side.
One final stop on San Juan: the Krystal Acres Alpaca Farm. You can feed the alpacas their approved food, and the gift shop has alpaca wear for all occasions. In an island of farms, this is a fun one to visit.
I have a feeling I have fallen in love with this Island Magic, and I have a feeling some is going home with me in my heart.
Where in the world is the mermaid? Orcas Island, WA
These San Juans are magical, rural, often rainy bits of paradise. They breathe creativity, so it’s not surprising that many types of artists settle here. As I type, we are on Orcas, and I’m really looking forward to sharing this gem of the San Juans with you next Monday.
Where’s Next? Anacortes, Camano Island, Bainbridge Island, Seattle, Washington
This PNW island hopping is super fun. Each island has its own personality and it’s fun to see the difference. We will drive to Camano and ferry to Bainbridge out of Seattle. Our ferry anxiety (much like the train anxiety in Japan) has calmed down as we understand the flow better. We enjoy meeting people in the lines, and the waterfront views.
Top Recs
I could list so many great places we’ve visited, but I’m going to make one global recommendation. When you go to an AirBB, don’t forget about the people who clean them and prepare them for you. They work hard in tight time crunches to turn over the places, and apparently are rarely tipped. This week, I received this note from Nora that made me tear up, first because she took the time to send it and secondly, because this was the first time in the past two years she had received a tip.
Hi Jamie. You recently stayed at an Airbnb I where I manage housekeeping. You left your card along with a tip and I just want you to know how good that felt for me. In nearly 2 years, yours is the first, and I could not let it go by without acknowledgement. Thank you for your kindness. I appreciate you too! Nora
We always leave a tip and a note at hotels. I use my cards when I can’t find paper. (If we don’t have cash, we add the tip to the room bill which is standard practice now.)
Through Kai’s Eyes
I had the best time at Grandma’s Cove on the San Juan Island. I got to take my cone off, dig in the sand, chew on a stick, and find that same stick in the ocean after my dad threw it in. I loved just standing in the water and cooling off my paws. This place is my new favorite.
Oh, and guess what? Yesterday was my 10th birthday. My brother Jordan and my German brother Jakob sent me a happy birthday movie all the way from Germany.
Mystical Mermaid Musings: Diving Deeper Into You
Many people we talk to on the islands rarely leave the islands. It’s lead to many conversations about why. Are you more comfortable staying in the same loop, or do you enjoy exploring things in new ways? Why? When you do explore a new space, or drive a different way to work, or somehow challenge your own status quo, how does that make you feel?
What Stories? The Studio - Netflix
I love Seth Rogen, but that’s not the only thing I love about this new comedic view of the “business.” Making films is a whole thing, and this story captures the pace, politics, and personalities of those who touch this industry in all the different ways. Good writing here, and I laugh out loud at least three times per episode.
This week’s Haiku
Orcas of San Juan, by J Black diamonds twinkle Free and wild you rise up Breaking the surface
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Thank you for being here. May your week be filled with all good things. Shine. Your light is needed here.
Oceans of Love, Jamie
❤️